Friday, August 21, 2009

Rocklands Round-up

Benjamin de Charmoy spent a few weeks in Rocklands after the Rock and Road trip and managed some remarkable climbing! He sent the classic dyno problem "Oral Office" 8A+ at Roadside and "No Late Benders" 8A at the Fields of Joy. Most impressively however, was his repeat of "Green Mamba" 8A+ after 3 or 4 sessions. "Green Mamba" was originally opened at 8B by Bernd Zangerl and only recently got down graded to 8A+. The problem starts off as for the popular "Black Spider", a 7C traverse until just after its crux, and then moves up a blank wall via a large move to a tiny crimp off a poor 3 finger pocket. Andrew Pedley made a short visit to Roadcrew and sent "Tommorrow I'll Be Gone" and "Purple Nipple Clan" (aka "Une Rhyme Stupide"), both 7C+ classics of the area.

Michael Janata has added another 7C, "The Brutal Minger" to the South African Area in Rocklands and at Roadside, Jon Reading finally managed to put "Nutsa" 8A+ in the bag.

An updated topo has been added for the Roadcrew boulders in Rocklands. Check it out...

Rocklands has been super busy lately with five new sectors being developed. The first is the Champagne sector, where Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival just added a new 8C called "Livin' Large", which climbs an 8m high arete. This makes it potentially the 4th 8C in Rocklands after "Olifant Dawn", "Monkey Wedding", and "Golden Shadow", all of which are unrepeated Fred Nicole problems. Then at another new sector, Hoeksonderkoffie, Scott Noy opened "Swine Flu" 7C. In addition, the three other new sectors being developed are: Base Camp, The Lorraines and the Ernies...

Back at the older areas, Andrew Wood sent "Jaws" 7C at the Dihedral Boulders and Jon Reading climbed "Paula Abdul" at the Sassies and the classic dyno problem "Black Velvet", both 8A.

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