Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Ground Swell

Marijus Šmigelskis on the 3rd ascent of "Ground Swell" 8B in Topside.

Thursday, November 21, 2013

Rocklands Origins

Please enjoy this glimpse back into time! Rare footage of Fred Nicole and friends' very first visit to what would be become the bouldering mecca of Rocklands circa 1996. Thanks to Shaun Harris,  Guy Hubbard and Rowan Toselli for helping us convert a dusty old VHS to timeless digital for everyone to enjoy...

Thursday, November 14, 2013

Table Mountain National Park Access Issues

Bouldering in Table Mountain National Parks Mountain Club of South Africa Rock Climbing Committee Notice:

There have been a few reports of people being chased out of Echo Valley by South African National Parks Board (SANParks) Rangers. This is concerning given that no access issues have ever been raised by SANParks regarding bouldering in Echo Valley with the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA). Even more concerning are the threats of arrest that some climbers have reported.

Let it be clear that SANParks have no legal grounds to stand on, in this regard. There is no legislation that prohibits bouldering in Table Mountain National Park and certainly none that sanctions arrest. It is important that the climbing community take a stand on this matter and resist intimidation by rangers. Should you be approached by any rangers in Echo Valley, or any other areas for that matter, we advise you to stand your ground and refuse to leave as giving into their demands sets a bad precedent.

The bouldering EMP which SANParks requested was submitted to SANParks in July 2012 and despite several attempts by MCSA to finalise this there has been no word from SANParks.

The only area which MCSA designated a self-imposed moratorium on was Redhill. However, this has been lifted since 1st July 2013 and SANParks was notified about this. The only area where the self-imposed moratorium remains is Easter Island in Redhill due to the sensitive nature of the environment.

We advise that you also carry the official letter signed by MCSA attached here.

In the unlikely event that you are arrested, or if you are faced with a fine (which you should not pay), report the incident immediately to MCSA (contact Delaney Carpenter on or 083 355 9933) and we will do our best to assist you.

Maintaining access to our climbing areas is paramount- we need to take a stand!

Tuesday, October 1, 2013

FFA on Cthulhu

Julia Chen has made the first female ascent of the stand start to "Cthulhu" 7C+, opened by Paul Robinson in 2011.

Friday, September 27, 2013

Iban on Mirta

Spaniard Iban Larrión making the fourth(?) ascent of "Mirta" 8B+ in Topside.

Monday, September 23, 2013

Mooiste Meisie

Marijus Šmigelskis climbing "Mooiste Meisie" 8B in Rocklands.

Monday, September 16, 2013

David Mason in Rocklands

British climber David Mason had a good run in Rocklands this year. Check it out:

Tuesday, September 10, 2013


Niel Mostert, John Wessels, Hermann Rabe and Alan Hill wreaking havoc in Mpumalanga...

Friday, September 6, 2013

JC in Rocklandia

Excuse the recent flood of Rocklands clips, but here's Julia Chen putting down some Northern Cederberg classics...

Thursday, September 5, 2013

Nils Favre and friends in Rocklands

An excellent video put together by Nils Favre of his 2013 season in Rocklands.

Monday, September 2, 2013

Rocklands Flashed!

Check out this clip of American Jimmy Webb incredibly flashing some burly Rocklands testpieces.

Monday, August 12, 2013

Monday, July 22, 2013

Cape St Francis

Julia Chen and Marijus Šmigelskis bouldering at Cape St Francis in the Eastern Cape.

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Bradshaw in Rocklands

The younger of the South African Steve Bradshaws has spent the past few years living the life most of us dream of; traveling and climbing around the world. Steve is currently busy with a 3 month stint in Rocklands and has gotten off to a flying start, racking up an impressive ticklist of hard problems, the most impressive of which so far is "Derailed" 8B+.

It took Steve around 8 sessions of work to put the line down, but at least half of those were spent falling on the final hard move. Steve says:
"At first the moves were quite strenuous, especially to link, but after a few sessions I found the climbing became fluid and not so difficult. I could just never get the swing right to snatch the final hold.

On the final day I went with good skin and sent it first try.  The difference between sending and falling seemed to be placing the toe very precisely on the smear at the lip before launching for the last edge.  (Angie could always tell whether I would do the move by how the toe looked.)

To clarify beta, I used a knee smear for the second move instead of a heel hook or the more dramatic sideways knee bar option which supposedly lowers the grade.  For more beta watch our Rocklands video which is on the way.  I have no idea what grade was for me as I haven't done enough in the range to tell."
Steve also made a single session ascent of the spectacular highball "El Corazon" 8B at De Pakhuys. Highlights of Steve's other sends include:
  • Oral Office 8A+
  • In Between Dreams 8A
  • Green Mamba 8A+
  • Gliding Through the Waves Like Dolphins 8A
  • Witness the Sickness 8A
  • The Hatchling 7C+/8A
  • Barracuda 8A
  • Royksopp 8A
  • Out of Balance 8A
  • The Full Tony Tick 8A
  • Weichie 7C+
  • Caroline 7C+
  • Umbuli 7C+
  • No Late Tenders 7C+
  • Stretched and Pressed 7C+
  • Last Day in Paradise 7C

Friday, June 21, 2013

Mazawattee gets it's 4th ascent

Clinton Martinengo has claimed the 4th ascent of South Africa's hardest route by climbing "Mazawattee" 35 in Montagu this week. Clinton spent lots of energy on the line this year and recovering from a serious shoulder injury and was able to complete it before the winter rains seeped the crag. Check out the video below:

Thursday, June 20, 2013

Friday, June 14, 2013

A Rocklands clip

Check out this clip from Iker Arroitajauregi climbing in Rocklands last year. It features some old testpieces as well as several first ascents.

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Easter Weekend Climbing Comps

The Cape has several options for climbers this coming Easter weekend. CityRock is hosting the SANCF National Bouldering League finals in Cape Town on Saturday and Sunday.

Then, a little further afield, just North of Ceres, Guy Holwill and Neil Margetts and co have organised what promises to be an excellent climbing festival focused on establishing a brand new bouldering area. I mean just check out this promo:

There's explosions and everything! See you there...

Friday, March 22, 2013

WP Boulder League round 7

The final results of the 2013 WP Boulder League. Catch the national finals at CityRock next weekend.

Friday, March 15, 2013

WP Boulder League round 6

One last round remains for the 2013 season of the WP Boulder League. The 7th round will take place at UCT on Tuesday, 19 March. Check out the results after round 6 below. The top 5 out of 7 scores count towards the final standings.

Monday, March 11, 2013

WP Boulder League round 5

Click through for the results of the WP Boulder League after round 5. The 6th round will take place at UCT on 12 March at 17:00.

Friday, March 8, 2013

Monday, March 4, 2013

WP Boulder League round 4

Check out the results of round 4 held at UCT. The next event will take place at CityRock on FRIDAY, 8 March at 17:00.

Friday, March 1, 2013

Wipe Out gets a 3rd ascent

Benjamin de Charmoy bagged the 3rd ascent of the short power test "Wipe Out" 31, at The Supertubes in Montagu shortly after returning from a 2 month climbing trip to Spain. "Wipe Out" was originally opened by Clinton Martinengo, who was unsure of it's difficulty and well known for his sandbag grades, threw out a "it's somewhere around 30". Marijus Šmigelskis made the second ascent in 2011, and after comparing the climb to other well-established Montagu classics of a similar length and grade, decided 32 was more appropriate. Some speculation existed however, and after climbing numerous 8b's in Spain, and despite it being harder than most 31's and even the odd 32 in Montagu, Benji reckoned 31 is most fair for the line.

Monday, February 25, 2013

WP Boulder League round 3

Click below to see the results of the WP Boulder League after round 3. The next event will be at UCT on Tuesday, 26 February at 17:00.

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

WP Boulder League Round 2

Round 2 of the WP Boulder League was held at UCT. Results after the jump. Round 3 will take place at CityRock on FRIDAY, 22 February 2013 at 17:00.

Monday, February 11, 2013

Sunday, February 10, 2013

WP Boulder League Round 1

Round 1 of the 2013 WP Boulder League was held at UCT last week. Same time, same place on Tuesday for round 2. Check out the results after the jump

Monday, February 4, 2013

Life on the Outside

Check out Sheldon Smith's latest creation featuring some of the bouldering around Cape Town. It's good to see kids putting their efforts into projects like this...