Thursday, December 30, 2004

Down South

Near his home in Simon's Town, Emile Esterhuizen opened two really cool problems, "Ooze smug" is a diagnal line crossing an overhanging face. Emile is always reluctant to grade anything so Marijus Šmigelskis tried the problem as well and reckons that 7C+ would be a conservative grade. Emile added "Koi Kaze" 7B, to a roof further uphill, an amazing problem with a striking resemblance to the pocketed limestone roof Chris Sharma climbs in "Rampage". And, at Redhill, at the Mushroom area, he opened another roof problem which he named "Zan Koku na Tenshi no Teeze" 7C, meaning "Cruel Angel's Thesis" in Japanese.

Thursday, April 8, 2004

Echo Valley Additions

A number of new problems have been added to the boulders of Echo Valley in Topside over the past few years.

At the Graffiti boulders, Clinton Martinengo, Marijus Šmigelskis and Craig Reed opened two problems:

  • "Monsters Inc" 7B - SS as for "Ryan Was Here" then climb left as for that problem, at the good hold on the arete, continue left and up across the face to top out as for "Doubt and Expectation". 
  • "Duty Calls" 7C+ - SS on an undercling just right of "The Man Who Stepped Off The Page Of a Storybook" and climb the arete using the small crimps.
At the "Through The Core" boulder, Brian Chase opened the slightly eliminate "Pudgy Bitch" 7C+ a few meters right of "Osiris". From the pic below, sit start with both hands on 2 and a heel in 1. Do a big move to grab 4 as a gaston with the right hand, then match and move a bit right to top out up the slight prow. The slab and crack/rail on the right is off route

Way back in 2002, Dale Posthumus opened "xomox" 7B at the Halfway House. The problem sit starts with an undercling/sidepull for your left hand and a crimp for your right, then move up to the heuco and straight up to top out.

Sunday, March 14, 2004

Ard Ay Repeated!

Clinton Martinengo made the 2nd ascent of Jerry Moffat's "Ard Ay" 8B at Topside on a sweltering spring day after numerous sessions to work the problem. To make matters even more challenging, the Argus Cycle Tour was happening the same day, blocking the normal access route to the boulders. As a result, Clinton was forced to do the long steep hike up from Boyes Drive in the heat!

Thursday, January 15, 2004

New Roadcrew Moderates

At the Roadcew area in Rocklands, Marijus and Edvinas Šmigelskis opened a few new problems:

Boulder C
3. Hill Start 7A - SS in obvious rail, LH to crimp, RH to lip, TO.

Boulder Q
1. Disregard 7A+ - SS, RH on poor slopey edge, LH on undercling/crimp, slap up the arete, TO.

Boulder R
1. Narcolepsy 7A - SS on good holds in roof, reach around the lip to a crimp on the face with RH, LH out to the arete, climb slopers on arete to TO.

Boulder S
1. The Conquest 6C - crouch start on crimps on lip of overhang, climb straight up the slab.
2. K53 6C - stand start, LH on crimp, RH on small crimp/undercling, reach/jump to the top, TO.

Boulder U
1. The Hulk 7A - SS in rail, RH out right to a pinch, straight up TO