Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Planet Telex FFA!!!

Julia Chen has continued her incredible form of late with a fast send of "Planet Telex" at Echo Valley in Topside. After trying the problem briefly over a year ago, she returned and dispatched it on her first attempt after working out the crux in three or four tries. The grade of the problem has been debated in recent years and it was decided to upgrade the line to 7B from the original sandbag of 7A. Many climbers still consider 7B a stiff grade for this Topside classic.

Saturday, September 26, 2009

JC sends Seriola

The 3rd ascent of "Seriola" was made by Julia Chen at Easter Island in Redhill. Julia worked the line on two previous trips to the area and climbed it quickly on her 3rd session. The highly technical and somewhat powerful problem was originally opened at 7A, but after attempts by numerous capable climbers, all without success, it was decided to upgrade it to 7B (see the forum for comments).

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

September sends

Greg Streatfield put his newly accquired "Boogie Nights" power endurance to good use and made fast work of "The Untitled Symphony of Self Destruction" 7C+ at Redhill.

Mat Rowe took a trip to Rocklands over the long weekend and sent "Hole in One" 7C+ at the Plateau boulders after a couple of tries with only one pad and no spotters.

Staying in Rocklands, Jon Reading sent "Witness the Sickness" 8A, a compression problem close to the De Pakhuys campsite as well as the classic dyno "Hole in One" 7C+ at the Plateau boulders. At the Hidden Boulder, Scott Noy climbed "Throwing Yourself Away" 7C+ which is to the right of "Born Into Struggle" after a crucial hold broke.

eZemvelo has been closed to the public until the environmental assessment has been completed. Brian Weaver did manage to get in one more first ascent with "Escaping Paranoid Slopers" 7C.

Julia Chen made a fast second ascent of "Pyrrhic Victory" 7B, a low roof problem at Redhill before returning to Echo Valley at Topside to add a topout to "Shrek". "Shrek 2" 7B+ now climbs all the way to the top of the boulder instead of stopping at the good hold 2m up, adding dicey 6C climbing above a horrible landing.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Streaky does Boogie Nights

Greg Streatfield has finally made the 5th ascent of "Boogie Nights" 8A+ at The Summit in Topside after spending a year or two periodically trying the monster roof line. Afterwards, Greg warmed down by climbing "Blame Canada" 7C at the lip of the "Boogie Nights" cave. Also in Topside, Marijus Šmigelskis made a fast second ascent of "Duty Calls" 7C, in Echo Valley. The problem climbs a steep arete, crimping along the small footholds of "The Man Who Stepped off the Page of a Storybook".

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Durban Bouldering Comp 8

The 8th annual Durban Bouldering Comp was held at the UKZN MC wall and had an excellent turnout, especially in the junior age groups, which were split up into 2 categories. Benjamin de Charmoy put his Rocklands bouldering experience in to take the mens title, and Faye Brouard had a decisive win in the ladies field.

  Mens Ladies 
 1. Benjamin de Charmoy Faye Brouard
 2. Simon Lowe Illona Pelser
 3. Paul Bruyere Candice Bagley

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Topside repeats

Julia Chen made the first female ascent of "Shrek" 7B at the Graffitti Boulders in Echo Valley at Topside. The micro crimpy line was opened by Evan Wiercx at 7B+ and even at 7B, it does not see many ascents. Julia nearly sent the problem unexpectedly on her first try of the day, after a long break from trying the line. Later that same day, Julia headed up to Bonnydoon, where she easily sent "Full Throttle" 7A after a few tries.

At Amazon.com, Marijus Šmigelskis climbed "Bitter & Twisted", which is Topside's first 7C. The problem was opened by Jeremy Colenso and climbs a short blank wall with a very large span move to a tiny crimp. Marijus was just able to make the span and catch the crimp with two fingers, and managed to hold on for the long lock off to the next crimp, where the line eased off.