Sunday, August 30, 2009

August Ends

In Rocklands, Shaun Harris sent "Shadows of Ourselves" 7C at Kleinfontein, and Mat Rowe and Jon Reading made fast work of the classic "Crazy Leg" 7C at 8 Day Rain.

Back in Cape Town, Marijus Šmigelskis has continued cleaning up the projects at Easter Island in Redhill. This time, it was the eliminate project on the boulder next to "Storefront Cemetery". The problem is called "Tears of a Rapper" and starts on good underclings, but very poor (and high) footholds make using the underclings rather tricky. It climbs straight up an overhanging face and eliminates all footholds on the wall on the right, but it's rather obvious. The grade? Again somewhere in the 7C to 8A region.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

eZemvelo Action

Marc "Flex" Efune has made the second ascent of the eZemvelo classic "Flashpoint" 7C. The climbers campsite is nearly complete and the area is bound to become Gauteng's premier bouldering destination, with hundreds of problems on excellent quality rock.

Donovan Willis also opened a new 7C, near to the climbers' campsite. "The Deadly Mosquito" climbs out a small cave to round onto a slab, with the crux being a static pull off a poor sloper to gain the lip holds. Donovan worked the problem for a session and returned a month later to send it in better conditions.

Monday, August 24, 2009

Cape FA's

Marijus Šmigelskis opened one of the prize projects at Easter Island at Redhill. The line, "Storefront Cemetery" climbs along the prow of a roof and then moves round onto the face for the crux. The grade is somewhere around 7C+ or 8A and future repetitions will decide. Marijus then visited The Lookout in Topside and made fast work of "Fit Birds", a 7C campus problem opened by Jerry Moffat a few years ago, before moving to boulder M and dispatching the roof project. This new problem, "Adult Swim" 7C, climbs out a small cave via little crimps to a wild cutloose crux off good sloping holds that face the wrong way.

Julia Chen also made a visit to Easter Island and managed fast sends of "The Brown Eye of Ra" 7A+ and "Insane in the Duane" 7A, both in a single session on the same day.

Friday, August 21, 2009

Rocklands Round-up

Benjamin de Charmoy spent a few weeks in Rocklands after the Rock and Road trip and managed some remarkable climbing! He sent the classic dyno problem "Oral Office" 8A+ at Roadside and "No Late Benders" 8A at the Fields of Joy. Most impressively however, was his repeat of "Green Mamba" 8A+ after 3 or 4 sessions. "Green Mamba" was originally opened at 8B by Bernd Zangerl and only recently got down graded to 8A+. The problem starts off as for the popular "Black Spider", a 7C traverse until just after its crux, and then moves up a blank wall via a large move to a tiny crimp off a poor 3 finger pocket. Andrew Pedley made a short visit to Roadcrew and sent "Tommorrow I'll Be Gone" and "Purple Nipple Clan" (aka "Une Rhyme Stupide"), both 7C+ classics of the area.

Michael Janata has added another 7C, "The Brutal Minger" to the South African Area in Rocklands and at Roadside, Jon Reading finally managed to put "Nutsa" 8A+ in the bag.

An updated topo has been added for the Roadcrew boulders in Rocklands. Check it out...

Rocklands has been super busy lately with five new sectors being developed. The first is the Champagne sector, where Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival just added a new 8C called "Livin' Large", which climbs an 8m high arete. This makes it potentially the 4th 8C in Rocklands after "Olifant Dawn", "Monkey Wedding", and "Golden Shadow", all of which are unrepeated Fred Nicole problems. Then at another new sector, Hoeksonderkoffie, Scott Noy opened "Swine Flu" 7C. In addition, the three other new sectors being developed are: Base Camp, The Lorraines and the Ernies...

Back at the older areas, Andrew Wood sent "Jaws" 7C at the Dihedral Boulders and Jon Reading climbed "Paula Abdul" at the Sassies and the classic dyno problem "Black Velvet", both 8A.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

This n that from here n there

In between attempts on "Boogie Nights", Shaun Harris has made possibly the second ascent of "Blame Canada" 7C at the Summit in Topside. The problem starts on the lip of the "Boogie Nights" cave, then campuses rightwards to join up an existing 7A+ and finishes as for that problem.

Martin Renz has provided some images of the bouldering in Alicedale, check out the gallery for more...

Julia Chen made a few trips to check out the Roysten Vasey boulder at CBD and managed some swift sends of "Bab's Cabs" 7A and "Papa Lazarou" 7B. These are first female ascent of both problems and each was sent after a single short session working the moves. Check out the CBD topos page for more bouldering info.