Friday, April 6, 2012
Matt at Llandudno
Check out this clip of Matt Bush shot over the summer on some new and not so new problems at Llandudno, including his ascent of "The Love Project" 8B.
Thursday, April 5, 2012
Life Enhancement Program
As we reported in Feb, Joe Möhle made a trad ascent of an old sport project he opened last year at The Hole. The route was originally bolted by Jeremy Samson and stood un-opened for more than 10 years before Joe set his sights to it and created "Life Enhancement Program" 31. A few weeks later he returned yet again, this time with Jonathan Joseph to capture the magic. Enjoy:
Tuesday, April 3, 2012
Candy for Snapdragon
Waterval Boven's mega classic "Snapdragon" 29 received some female attention a few days ago when Candice Bagley managed a send of the world-famous endro testpiece. Check out what Candice had to say about the route and some sweet shots by Gustav van Rensburg below:
"I had been on Snapdragon a few years previously but it felt fairly unattainable in the usual weekend trips to Waterval Boven. This time my trip was to be a bit longer and my power was up enough from bouldering that meant the moves did not feel difficult on their own. I spent 4 climbing days on Snapdragon this time and from the first day it felt doable, quite the contrast from the first time I was on it.
Every move of this classic route feels elegant and interesting. It has a little bit of everything . There is a crimpy, balancy crux that requires specific foot movements which make it almost effortless. The pumpy lower section is full of seemingly easy moves, each draining a little of your energy. My favourite move on the route is a crazy drop knee, inspired by Nadine Methner’s video, in the middle section. The orange wall suddenly kicks back to become more of a pump fest. The famous heel hook crux is novel and a great deal of fun, topped off with some tricky moves to the chains.
I have about 5 days left in Boven so hopefully I will be able to tick off another stunning endurance route like this."
"I had been on Snapdragon a few years previously but it felt fairly unattainable in the usual weekend trips to Waterval Boven. This time my trip was to be a bit longer and my power was up enough from bouldering that meant the moves did not feel difficult on their own. I spent 4 climbing days on Snapdragon this time and from the first day it felt doable, quite the contrast from the first time I was on it.
Every move of this classic route feels elegant and interesting. It has a little bit of everything . There is a crimpy, balancy crux that requires specific foot movements which make it almost effortless. The pumpy lower section is full of seemingly easy moves, each draining a little of your energy. My favourite move on the route is a crazy drop knee, inspired by Nadine Methner’s video, in the middle section. The orange wall suddenly kicks back to become more of a pump fest. The famous heel hook crux is novel and a great deal of fun, topped off with some tricky moves to the chains.
I have about 5 days left in Boven so hopefully I will be able to tick off another stunning endurance route like this."
Monday, April 2, 2012
Vajra Days
Julia Chen continues to rack up here impressive list of female firsts, this time with an impressive ascent of "Elfen Lied" a 14+ move 8A traverse! Julia built up her stamina over three sessions on the line, refining her sequence, and managing to send on her fourth day.
Just one boulder over, Andrew Wood managed a repeat of "The Sound of Violence" 8A, and Marijus Šmigelskis managed to add a silly 6 move extension to the start of the same problem to create "The Sound of Violins" at one notch harder.
Just one boulder over, Andrew Wood managed a repeat of "The Sound of Violence" 8A, and Marijus Šmigelskis managed to add a silly 6 move extension to the start of the same problem to create "The Sound of Violins" at one notch harder.
Sunday, April 1, 2012
CityRock Bouldering Comp 2012
CityRock held their annual bouldering comp on the brand new bouldering wall which has now doubled the climbing surface. With over R25,000 in prizes and hundreds of brand new imported grips, it's a surprise the entire country didn't descend upon South Africa's premier indoor climbing centre! In all, 35 problems were set to cater for all levels by some of SA's top climbers resulting in a wide variety of styles, as well as the usual dyno and monkey swing comps for those taking things a little less serious...
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| Andy Davies displays some old school stemming technique to dispatch problem 28. |
| Mens Open | |
| 1 | Marijus Šmigelskis |
| 2 | Duncan Fraser |
| 3 | Robbie Fraser |
| Ladies Open | |
| 1 | Julia Chen |
| Mens Intermediate | |
| 1 | Nielen Venter |
| 2 | Jason Collins |
| 3 | Adir Deokran |
| Womens Intermediate | |
| 1 | Isabella Van de Rede |
| Mens Novice | |
| 1 | Petrus Theron |
| 2 | Anesh Magan |
| 3 | Mats Elliot (tie) |
| 3 | Ryan Bezuidenhout (tie) |
| U18 Boys | |
| 1 | Daniel Duval |
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