featuring:
Born into Struggle, 7B+
Full Tony Tick 8A
El Corazon 8B
Tea With Elmarie 8A+
Poison Dwarf Direct 7C+
Purple Nipple Clan 8A
Hole in One 7C+
Tore de Pisa 7A+ First Ascent
Cedar Spine 7C
Nutsa 8A+
I first envisioned the unlikely line just over 2 years ago. A few months went by before I actually could piece it together and began to believe it was possible for me. I pulled out a piton (part of it belongs to an existing aid route) and replaced it with two opposing wires. This is the only fixed piece on the route, and I sent it placing all other gear. It is possible to do it placing all gear, but would be slightly more dangerous.
I had to wait out two winters to do the the route because the headwall seeps. This and several trips overseas meant that I could never build up a good rythem of working the route. I came very close before leaving for Morocco and Switzerland this past summer, thanks to the patient belays by Richard "Squeaky" Halsey.
I sent yesterday on what was likely my last chance before winter comes and I have to leave for Switzerland! It is predicted to rain for the 4 days in Cape Town and the route needs 5 days to dry. Phew!!!
It took approximately 30 redpoint attempts over two years of constant self-discovery to finally open what is definitely my best climbing achievement to date. There is likely to be a second pitch to this one, but I'm not sure if it goes yet (here we go again!). I'm calling the first pitch Darkest Africa: Shot In The Dark 31Joe is sponsored by Edelrid, DMM and Wild Country.
