Darkest Africa

Table Mountain's Africa Ledge just received a hard new-school line courtesy of Joe Möhle. The single 15 meter pitch that is now "Darkest Africa" has been Joe's longest project, throwing countless hurdles in his way, the biggest of which was the seeping headwall. Joe is grading the line 31, although he feels it's a fair bit harder than most of the other routes he's done of the same grade.

Joe had the following to say about his latest addition to the test-pieces at The Ledge:

I first envisioned the unlikely line just over 2 years ago. A few months went by before I actually could piece it together and began to believe it was possible for me. I pulled out a piton (part of it belongs to an existing aid route) and replaced it with two opposing wires. This is the only fixed piece on the route, and I sent it placing all other gear. It is possible to do it placing all gear, but would be slightly more dangerous. 

I had to wait out two winters to do the the route because the headwall seeps. This and several trips overseas meant that I could never build up a good rythem of working the route. I came very close before leaving for Morocco and Switzerland this past summer, thanks to the patient belays by Richard "Squeaky" Halsey.

I sent yesterday on what was likely my last chance before winter comes and I have to leave for Switzerland! It is predicted to rain for the 4 days in Cape Town and the route needs 5 days to dry. Phew!!! 

It took approximately 30 redpoint attempts over two years of constant self-discovery to finally open what is definitely my best climbing achievement to date. There is likely to be a second pitch to this one, but I'm not sure if it goes yet (here we go again!). I'm calling the first pitch Darkest Africa: Shot In The Dark 31

Joe is sponsored by Edelrid, DMM and Wild Country.

Moderate Monday

Julia Chen on the super dab-classic "Osiris" 7A+ at Echo Valley in Topside.

UPDATE: Joe in Hermanus

In April, Joe Möhle made long awaited second ascent of "Be Quick or Be Dead" 31 at Crystal Dream Palace in Hermanus. Garrreth Bird tagged along to capture the moment and produced this cool clip:

No Stranger to Danger

Marijus Šmigelskis has added yet another excellent line to Echo Valley's growing list of classic problems. "No Stranger to Danger" 8A takes an imposing line up a hanging shield of rock above a less than ideal landing on the massive boulder behind the Cape Fear block. It took Marijus several sessions to work out the complex sequence through the problem's series of micro crimps and crux final move. Check out the clip of the send below:

National Boulder League Finals 2012

A somewhat controversial NBL finals took place at the university wall in Durban over the weekend after a late-in-the-season venue change from Grahamstown. Most WC climbers opted to give the event a miss as a result. Benjamin de Charmoy took the mens title for the third consecutive year, and Candice Bagley claimed 1st in the ladies open.

Rachelle de Charmoy

Mathieu Schneuwly brings us a brief run-down of the day:

The warm and humid conditions of Durban played host to the 2012 NBL national finals at UKZN. This year their was an overwhelming attendance of Gauteng and KZN youths who were eager to test themselves against one another and showed plenty of good natured rivalry. There were categories to cater for every age group, including novice and expert categories within the age groups. Everyone was invited!

The qualifiers were kicked off with categories unleashed one at a time to scramble up their problems within a 45 minute time limit. Advantage was given for flash ascents in the qualifiers, meaning people were tentative to be the first person to try, but things quickly got going. The qualifiers ran smoothly and the problem setters did an excellent job to ensure that every style was challenged and that the competitors were kept on their toes and well amused. 

The top 5 of each category were entered into the grand final which was scheduled for the afternoon after a well needed lunch.

The finals consisted of three problems with a 5 minutes on 5 minutes off system. The finals problems were of top quality yet somewhat soft although the fields were evenly spread. The national mens title was once again claimed by Benjamin de Charmoy of WC who flashed two of the problems and obtained the bonus hold on the third. Second place was Mathieu Schneuwly also from WC who’s two top outs and a bonus hold were enough to hold off Dylan Vogt of Gauteng who took third place.

The ladies category was a somewhat closer call with an attempt or two seperating the positions. The Ladies title was handed to their very own Candice Bagley followed by Rachelle de charmoy from WC, both of whom shared a flash or two, and whose scores were seperated by mere attempts. Faye Brouard of KZN took third place after a climbing hiatus to end the day as a huge success!

Unfortunately the 2012 NBL final failed to showcase the full field of talent in the NBL circuit, and if the aim of the organisers; to raise the level of the competition to an international standard; is to be achieved, more effort should be made in future events to ensure that the adult open category is fully representative.

Benj de Charmoy

Mathieu Schneuwly

Faye Brouard

Check out the full finals results after the jump...