Sunday, March 30, 2008

March Hits

Julia Chen sent "Skunk" 7B at TDA after three or four sessions on the problem. The classic line was opened by Justin Hawkins and was the first 7B in the area. The problem involves long pulls off small crimps to gain a sloping undercling and then a dynamic slap to a sloper rail, which is follwoed by a juggy but high topout.
Julia on "Skunk"

Evan Wiercx and friends have developed a brand new area at Topside, called "Brazil" on the plateau above the Silvermine Boulder.

Donovan Willis has been busy in Mpumalanga, developing yet another brilliant area. He has opened "Killswitch" 7C amongst several other problems in Sabie Gorge.
Donovan on "Killswitch"

Friday, February 29, 2008

Swim Coach for Harris

Shaun Harris made the 4th of "Swim Coach" 7C+ at the Classroom after a permanent relocation to Cape Town from Johannesburg.

Thursday, February 28, 2008

Mpumalanga Bouldering

Marijus and Edvinas Šmigelskis, along with Julia Chen, visited the little know bouldering areas of Mpumalanga for two weeks. At Gold Rush, Marijus repeated "Leap of Faith" 7C, Julia sent "Wallace" 7A and Donovan Willis opened "Static Remedy" and "The Weatherman" both 7Bs. At Malelane Gorge, an excellent new area, Donovan opened "Waterboy" and Marijus opened "The Railway" both 7A. Later at Kaapsehoop, Marijus repeated "Living the Dream" 7C, and then opened "Dark Wing" 8A, an amazing high arete. Edvinas made the second ascent on his very next go and Julia sent "Smell of Victory" 7A. Back in Johannesburg at The Glade, just before heading to the airport, Julia made a second try ascent of "The Fingernail Traverse" 7A and Marijus made the 2nd repeat of "Lucky Larry's Larder of Lascivious Lesbians" 7C+.

Edvinas on "Dark Wing".

Monday, December 17, 2007

Latest at the Scree

Brendan Hurner and Marijus Šmigelskis have opened several new problems at The Scree. Highlist from Marijus were "Book of Lies" 7B, a classic roof and slab problem, then a steep undercut face produced "Summer Rain" 7C and on roof on the same boulder resulted in "Hot Pie Boy" 7A, which may be easier when the holds dry a bit more. Brendan established a problem nearby which involves a long reach off an impossibly small crimp, which should check in somewhere around the 7A to 7B mark.

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Casus Belli

Yet another link up has been opened on the "Four Singers" boulder at Redhill. This time it was Greg Streatfield who linked the moves from the starting holds of  "Four Singers" into the start and joining of "Shark Lord Darren" to produce "Casus Belli" at 7C.