Monday, May 28, 2007

The Devil Wears Prana

Marijus Šmigelskis has established a new problem at the Graffitti Boulders in Echo Valley at Topside after trying the line on previous visits (while working "Captain Graffitti"). "The Devil Wears Prana" 7B is and eliminate jump that is bound not to become a classic and may be easier if you use the razor sharp holds in a crack which runs alongside the problem (as this may eliminate the crux dyno). A few days later Marijus made the 4th ascent of "The Untitled Symphony of Self-Destruction" 7C+ at Redhill.

Sunday, May 20, 2007

Willis in Swinburne

Donovan Willis repeated "What Wanda Wanted" 7C at Swinburne in the Free State. The problem traverses the Long Tonk boulder via long moves between fairly good holds which then lead to a blank section on poor crimps and small huecos.

Monday, April 30, 2007

Russ sends Pendragon

Over the long weekend at the end of the month, a group of Gauteng climbers travelled to Rocklands for a bit of bouldering. Among them was Russ Hattingh who immediately set to work on the Roadside testpiece "Pendragon" 8A. He did all the moves on his first session and easily sent the line on his next day on the problem.

Sunday, April 29, 2007

National Bouldering League 2007

The National Bouldering League Finals where held near Harrismith in the Free State at a brand new bouldering area featuring over 120 problems and potential for many more. WP league leader Marijus Šmigelskis won the mens open category with the first ascent of the brilliant "Iceman 4000" 7C, Frenchman Theo Vischel finished 2nd with KZN winner Mathieu Schnewly in at 3rd. Julia Davies (JHB) won the ladies open category with Illona Pelse (PTA) and Dominique Dix-Peek (JHB) in second and third place respectively. KZN dominated the U18 Boys category where Benjamin Decharmay took top honors with an impressive overall score and Kate Fairfield of WP won the U18 Girls.


Monday, April 23, 2007

Desperado for Marijus

Marijus Šmigelskis spent a weekend at Rocklands and managed to repeat Klem Loskot's "Desperado" in just four attempts. The eliminate problem was opened at 8B, but Marijus reckons it's much easier and time will tell where the grade will settle. Back at the campsite, an hour later, Marijus sent "Ron Ron et Caramel" 7C+ just before sunset.