Locals Rocklands Repeats

Rocklands saw a lot of local action this past winter season. Here are a few high-lights:

Arjan de Kock spent most of his winter bouldering and managed an impressive ticklist with the second South African ascent of "Tea with Elmarie" 8A+ as well as sends of "Pendragon", "No Late Tenders" both 8A and the rarely repeated sit start to "Question of Balance" called "A Matter of Power" 7C+.

Arjan on "Pendragon"

 Justin Hawkins sent his first 8B "Armed Response" (with "Leopard Cave" now at 8A+) and flashed "Black Spider" 7C.

Ben Harper made a fast repeat of "No Late Tenders" 8A and Shaun Jansa sent the impressive dyno "Black Velvet" 8A. Marijus Šmigelskis also managed to repeat "Tea with Elmarie" 8A+ for his first of the grade.

Marijus on "Tea with Elmarie"

Chaos

Emile Esterhuizen has opened the much tried "Chaos" project at the Mushroom area at Redhill. He discovered a new sequence for the crux move, by moving slightly more right than originally intended and the problem now goes at around 7C/7C+

Roudnitska

At the newly discovered "Outer Limits" area at Redhill, Emile Esterhuizen opened "Roudnitska", similar to a shorter version of "Elfen Lied". The problem took Emile four days of attempts and is about 7C/7C+.

The Exceptionals

In Rocklands, Edvinas Šmigelskis established a new problem at the Roadside area, on the "Black Labour" boulder (just above the "Black Eagle" boulder). "The Exceptionals" 7C+ starts as for "Segregation" (the 7C dyno), but then does a big move left to a small crimp, and then climbs straight up to top out from there.

LLandudno Joe

Joe Möhle opened the bold and impressive "Zero Gravity" at Llundudno. The line involves an intimidating dyno above a slab which leads straight into the ocean below.

Joe on "Zero Gravity"

Previously unreported, Joe also opened the impressive off-width roof crack "Amazing Grace" in a cave in Llundudno in mid 2005, after about a year of on-and-off attempts. The grade has not yet been determined as the problem awaits a second ascent, but it's pretty tricky...