Friday, December 26, 2008

Emile in Oz

Emile Esterhuizen made a visit down under to the Grampian Mountains in Australia. At the Hollow Mountain Cave and managed to send "X-treme Cool" 7C and the impressive "Sleepy Hollow" 8A+ fairly quickly. He also came frustratingly close to linking the two problems, which create "Under Siege" 8B+, falling just a few moves from the end of the massive line.
Emile on "Sleepy Hollow"

Sunday, November 30, 2008

Deadwood Eliminates

It seems a desperate need for something fresh to climb has resulted in several eliminate problems being established at the Deadwood boulder at TDA. Greg Streatfield squeezed in "Dionysus" 7C (although it seems the grade will settle at 7B+), rounding the arete and topping out at the same place as "Scissor Fight". Michael Janata's creation "The Bimbler" 7C is slightly less eliminate, slightly harder, and also shares the same top out. Andrew Wood then added a lower start to "the Bimbler" to create "Dead Yeti" at 7C+. Andrew also made a 4th try ascent of "Weichei" 7C+ at the Plateau boulders in Rocklands.
Dale Posthumus on "Scissor Fight"

Friday, November 28, 2008

Möwe repeated

Marijus Šmigelskis nabbed the 2nd ascent of "Möwe" 8A+ at Redhill after 4 sessions of work on the problem. The micro crimps on the crux only allowed for a handful of worthwhile attempts each day before they cut through his fingertips forcing several rest days. He found the line to be easier than "Koeberg", which may settle the debate for the Peninsula's hardest problem...
Marijus on "Möwe"

Thursday, October 30, 2008

October Hits

Marijus Šmigelskis has made the 3rd ascent of "Accountant's Project" 8A at Her Majesty's Boulder in Topside. The short powerful line was opened by Jerry Moffat and has seen only one other repeat, by Clinton Martinengo, despite attempts by some strong climbers. A poor quality clip of the send:


Emile Esterhuizen has just become the third South African to boulder 8B with his send of "Black Shadow" 8B in Rocklands. Emile worked the problem over the past few months after returning from a bouldering trip to Japan. "Black Shadow" and "Armed Response" are the only two 8B that have South Afican ascents and both were opened by Klem Loskot.

Monday, October 6, 2008

Koeberg 2nd Ascent

Marijus Šmigelskis has made the second ascent of "Koeberg" 8A+ at Bonnydoon in Topside, which was opened by Emile Esterhuizen earlier this year. The line is a likely candidate for Cape Town hardest problem and both Marijus and Emile agree it's harder than "Ard Ay" and "Boogie Nights" (the other two 8A+ problems in Topside). Emile's other desperate testpiece, "Möwe" at Redhill, is claimed to be harder but is unrepeated as yet so time will tell. Marijus used a completely different sequence for the crux move, using a fickle heel hook, instead of turning 180 degrees to get footlocks like Emile's sequence on the opening ascent.
Marijus on "Koeberg"