Deadwood Eliminates

It seems a desperate need for something fresh to climb has resulted in several eliminate problems being established at the Deadwood boulder at TDA. Greg Streatfield squeezed in "Dionysus" 7C (although it seems the grade will settle at 7B+), rounding the arete and topping out at the same place as "Scissor Fight". Michael Janata's creation "The Bimbler" 7C is slightly less eliminate, slightly harder, and also shares the same top out. Andrew Wood then added a lower start to "the Bimbler" to create "Dead Yeti" at 7C+. Andrew also made a 4th try ascent of "Weichei" 7C+ at the Plateau boulders in Rocklands.

Dale Posthumus on "Scissor Fight"

Möwe repeated

Marijus Šmigelskis nabbed the 2nd ascent of "Möwe" 8A+ at Redhill after 4 sessions of work on the problem. The micro crimps on the crux only allowed for a handful of worthwhile attempts each day before they cut through his fingertips forcing several rest days. He found the line to be easier than "Koeberg", which may settle the debate for the Peninsula's hardest problem...

Marijus on "Möwe"

October Hits

Marijus Šmigelskis has made the 3rd ascent of "Accountant's Project" 8A at Her Majesty's Boulder in Topside. The short powerful line was opened by Jerry Moffat and has seen only one other repeat, by Clinton Martinengo, despite attempts by some strong climbers. A poor quality clip of the send:

Emile Esterhuizen has just become the third South African to boulder 8B with his send of "Black Shadow" 8B in Rocklands. Emile worked the problem over the past few months after returning from a bouldering trip to Japan. "Black Shadow" and "Armed Response" are the only two 8B that have South Afican ascents and both were opened by Klem Loskot.

Koeberg 2nd Ascent

Marijus Šmigelskis has made the second ascent of "Koeberg" 8A+ at Bonnydoon in Topside, which was opened by Emile Esterhuizen earlier this year. The line is a likely candidate for Cape Town hardest problem and both Marijus and Emile agree it's harder than "Ard Ay" and "Boogie Nights" (the other two 8A+ problems in Topside). Emile's other desperate testpiece, "Möwe" at Redhill, is claimed to be harder but is unrepeated as yet so time will tell. Marijus used a completely different sequence for the crux move, using a fickle heel hook, instead of turning 180 degrees to get footlocks like Emile's sequence on the opening ascent.

Marijus on "Koeberg"

September Hits

Another Redhill testpiece "The Sound of Violence" 8A, got the treatment this month. Edvinas Šmigelskis kicked things off with the third ascent after Greg Streatfield worked out a static way of doing the crux dyno. Dominic Riordan, Shaun Harris and Greg were aboard the send train a few weeks later and all sent on the same day! A video of the opening ascent by Marijus Šmigelskis can be seen here. Greg also sent "Elfen Lied" 8A and Shaun did the reverse of the same problem, called "The Untitled Symphony of Self Destruction" 7C+. Marijus also did the second ascent of "Entropy" 8A+, the low start to "Chaos".

With the warm summer months approaching, Andrew Wood made a fairly hassle free repeat of the classic Classroom testpiece "Swim Coach" 7C+, before the heat makes the sloper crimps much harder to hold.

In between burns on "Koeberg", Marijus Šmigelskis has put up a bunch of quality new problems at Bonnydoon in Topside, the best of which are probably "7 Mouths, 8 Tongues" 7A and the easier right hand finish to "The buoyancy of Citrus" which has been named "Enhanced Coziness" 7C, after the grip on Andrew Wood's new toothbrush.

Emile Esterhuizen and friends have been busy developing a new area in the Southern Cederberg, North of Ceres. The area has been named "Houdenbek" and has loads of potential for hundreds of problem. So far, the hardest one there is "Bear Grylls" 7C, established by Marijus Šmigelskis. Topos and details are available on facebook.com on the "Houdenbek Bouldering" group page.

At Rocklands the season seems to be drawing to a close. However, Jon Reading managed to send "Caroline" and "Rooi Klavier" both 7C, and Karen Varga sent "Dirty Lies" 7B. Julia Chen made a fast send of "The Fin" 7A at Kleinfontein after a trip back to the car to get a better toe hooking shoe and Dale Posthumus put "Jaws" 7C to rest.

Dale on "Jaws".