LLandudno Joe

Joe Möhle opened the bold and impressive "Zero Gravity" at Llundudno. The line involves an intimidating dyno above a slab which leads straight into the ocean below.

Joe on "Zero Gravity"

Previously unreported, Joe also opened the impressive off-width roof crack "Amazing Grace" in a cave in Llundudno in mid 2005, after about a year of on-and-off attempts. The grade has not yet been determined as the problem awaits a second ascent, but it's pretty tricky...

More for Redhill

The recent fire at Redhill has revealed a few more boulders with some good problems. Emile Esterhuizen opened two new lines, "Gom Jabar" 7B+ is a 14 move roof problem on sharp crimps and jugs and "Onime" 7B+ is a powerful line through a black roof.

Then, at the Mushroom area, Edvinas Šmigelskis opened the excellent "High Maintenance" 7C, which climbs the micro crimps and poor slopers to the right of "Eyeball".

Edvinas on "High Maintenance"

The Butterfly Effect

At The Maze in Topside, Edvinas Šmigelskis within a few tries managed to open one of the long standing projects. "The Butterfly Effect" 7C, climbs a diagonal line through a roof on the "Snake" boulder.

Powderburn

Clinton Martinengo has opened a new route on the Lemon Curd Boulder at Peer's Cave. "Powderburn" starts as for "Pink Ideas" then reverses "Thundering Typhoons" to finish up "Opal Moon". The route took him 5 days of attempts to redpoint and he has graded it 32.

Johannes at Redhill

At Redhill, Johannes Schlemper from Germany has opened a new problem which reverses "Elfen Lied". He has named it "The Untitled Symphony of Self Destruction" 7C+, the problem starts as for Vajra and tops out just before the start of "Elfen Lied".

Then, returning a few sessions later to the clean wall opposite "Elfen Lied", Johannes added another crimp-testpiece. "Black Demon" 7C, starts as for "Soaring Bandicoot" but then climbs up and right, up the slightly overhanging, rippled face. Check out the sequence below: