Wednesday, June 27, 2007
At Rocklands, Kate Fairfield showing her victory at the 2007 Bouldering Nationals was well deserved, sent the high 7B arete "G1" on the "Cripple" boulder at Roadside. She also made a bold ascent of scary highball "Creaking Heights" 6C using a very dynamic sequence high off the deck. Marijus Šmigelskis aslo sent "Les Gloire De Papu" 8A after 2 days on the problem.
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Marijus Šmigelskis managed to opened two new 8A's in one day at Redhill. First to fall was "The Sound of Violence" which took Marijus 3 days of effort to link. The problem starts as for "Dark Lord Sharon" and then traverses right to finish as for "Schwann Ping". Then, while showing some first-time visitors around the Mushroom area, he decided to have a go on the much tried "Chaos" project, and after a few tries, the line was completed at last. Emile Eszterhuizen had done an alternative version of "Chaos" using holds further right on the boulder, but Marijus managed to open the original version (which goes up and left from a sloper rail via long pulls to poor edges) after 3 years of attempts by some strong climbers.
Sunday, June 17, 2007
Scott Noy sent "Planeta Tierra" 7C at the Roadcrew area in Rocklands. The seldom-repeated problem climbs the arete behind "Rooi Klavier", starting with a shallow hueco low down for the left hand and then finishes up the easy angle slab.